Montenegro

[mon-tuh-nee-groh]
Montenegrin: Crna Gora / Црна Гора
Meaning: black mountain

My friend Anica from Serbia recommended I stay in Budva and hop out to see everything from there. I would recommend this to most people who are backpacking and want to see lots of spots in Montenegro. Anica also put me in contact with her friend Maša in Budva who rents out rooms for €20/night. I’d be happy to put you in contact if you like. I jumped into this trip blindly without looking at a single picture, only going off Anica’s many tales of this beautiful country. I wanted it that way. I didn’t want to know until I knew.

Now I do.

I arrived in Podgorica via airplane from Paris and was picked up by Maša’s friend Joran. He tells me his English is bad, but he knows the word “cake” and offers me one from a package. It’s similar to a Little Debbie cake; my 5-year-old self is cheering. He drove me the 40-minute journey to Budva that passes over what Joran points out to be Lake Skadar in clear-as-day English. A lone goat stands on the side of a hill steps from the road; he seems to welcome me to this haven.

Budva

[buh-duh-vuh]
Montenegrin: Budva, Будва
Often called Montenegrin Miami

Seaside by Church of St John, Budava, Montenegro

Door by Church of St John, Budva, Montenegro

Patio in the old town Stari Grad, Budva, Montenegro

Door to Church of St John, Budva, Montenegro

Cobblestone Corridor in the old town Stari Grad, Budva, Montenegro

Budva is the main coastal spot in Montenegro and it’s the Baltic party town you’d expect. I, personally, am not a rave partier, so this was not a draw factor for me.

I stayed up away from the coast in a room with a balcony that overlooks Budva from a higher altitude. This is the way to see Budva. The view from afar is beautiful. The wonderful thing about this town is that it’s packed with tourists, so there are lots of tourist amenities. The one I was most concerned with was renting a car. I have never rented a car in my life, not even in America, but if you truly want to see Montenegro, I highly recommend renting a car. From what I could tell, it was cheaper than doing any tours with the added bonus of being able to stop wherever you like. You can find car rental shops all around the area that have automatic cars, which, unlike the rest of Europe, won't cost you an arm and a leg.

Go to the old town in Budva. Especially at night to feel its vibrancy. The city has mixed in some lovely modernity in the way of light décor.

Food recommendations: Konoba Portun in the old town for local dishes, Hotel Budva on the coast for a more upscale, polished vibe.

Cetinje

[tse-ti-nye]
Montenegrin: Prijestonica / Приjестоница
Previous capital of Montenegro, extra-previous all of Montenegro

This place is a hotbed of history and charm. I drove here in the morning and stepped out of my car to see what looked like a Mother and Father swinging their 3-foot-tall son by the arms, each holding one hand. I remember doing that in Amicaloa Falls, Georgia with my own parents screaming “higher!”

Like the title says, Montenegro was once only comprised of Cetjnie and a few surrounding areas until the Treaty of Berlin in 1878 that effectively nearly tripled its size.

Pastel colored houses line the white stone roads. There’s an air here that reminds me of Hansel & Gretel—the happy version. It’s the love-child of Amsterdam and Bavaria, once-removed from the Baltic coast.

There are a total of 5 museums in the city square and you can buy a pass for all of them at a reduced rate. They also offer student discounts. If you only go to one, I recommend King Nikola’s Museum. It was the house of Montenegro’s last reigning King. Most importantly (to me), it was also home to two of his daughters, one of whom was a badass princess. She was the first woman to ever drive in Montenegro. One of her sisters, the queen of Italy at the time, sent her a Fiat as a gift. According to the museum’s keeper, Princess Ksenija was extremely progressive for her day and age. Not only did she scoot-scoot around Cetjnie in what I imagine to be a hot pink Fiat, but she was also her father’s trusted advisor and secretary on all issues foreign and domestic starting in her early 20s. She never cared to marry despite the fact she would’ve been the 5th queen of her father’s daughters.

Food recommendations: S.U.R. CRNA GORA. There’s no English on the menu. Order a paradajz (tomato) salad and the ćevapi (if you’re an omnivore).

Lovćen National Park

[loov-sin]
Montenegrin: Nacionalni Park Lovćen / Национални парк Ловћен
OMG I can see all of Montenegro from here

To be more precise, you can see a large portion of Montenegro from here after climbing about 464 steps to the Njegos Mausoleum that houses multiple monuments and, past its cube-like structure, opens up to a panoramic pathway on the other side, providing you with a killer view.

The monuments don’t trump the view, but I found the ceiling of the central monument extremely entrancing. It’s gold. Straight up GOLD.

Walking up to the Njegos Mausoleum is a must do, and the entire drive to the top will make you cry and wonder why human beings left nature. But then you’ll remember getting eaten by wild animals and it’ll be okay again.

Kotor

[ko-tor]
Montenegrin: Kotor / Котор
Sadly but wonderfully damaged by an earthquake in 1979

I arrived in Kotor after sleeping in way later than I’d like to admit. Seems she knew she was what I’d be needing that day. Minutes after leaving my car in a town parking lot, I found myself in the middle of torrential downpour. Something magical always happens when I find myself in the middle of torrential downpour.

Kotor is beautifully broken from its discolored shingles to its ancient buildings barely hanging on to its vertical cliffs, like Liz Taylor filming Cleopatra without the volatility. She sways in her shambles; aware they make her the star of sleepy port towns.

I sat looking up at the cliffs towering over quiet boats and felt no urge to climb to the top. Whatever is up there saw me looking up, trying to discern its secrets; it chose to keep them hidden from me.

Food recommendation: Restaurant Galion. Definitely more of a fine dining vibe, but meals range from €15-25. Excellent and it’s on the water.

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