Sarajevo: A Love Letter From a Girl Madly in Love + My Top 10 Nooks

*Old Town, Sarajevo, Bosnia and and Herzegovina*

I feel a piece of my soul dislodged itself from my body and hid itself in Sarajevo pre-birth. I have so much love for this city that I have had to force myself to write about it. I want it to stay my hidden diamond forever, but the world needs to know the endless troves of beautiful humanity that dwell within its streets. Pardon me and my appropriately partitioned romanticism.

I will always be grateful to my friends Lejla and Adi who first showed me the beauty and strength of their home that, despite atrocities, has walked out of the tunnel to greet everyone with a smile and ask them for a dance.

One sentiment you will not find here is pity. Yes, the people have been through recent destruction. But if you are so lucky to venture here, you’ll understand that these people have always been jovial beings sans even the slightest hint of bullshittery. They’ll give you the shirt off their back with a smile and will also tell it like it is till the cows come home. Bad things sometimes happen to really good people who make great fucking coffee.

*The mountains and city of Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina*

Looking over the city’s entire geography feels like admiring a carefully woven sweetgrass basket similar to the ones I used to eye during summer trips to South Carolina as a child. Women at the Charleston street markets would sit in the humidity weaving their happiness, sadness, anger, and dreams into entire blocks-worth of these vessels.

Sarajevo is surrounded by mountains on all sides with the center nestled in the heart of the round. Standing at one edge of this natural coliseum, I felt the pulse below my feet of one of the many threads that have woven this magical place into a goldmine of culture, community, and coeur.

*Favorite number on a street in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina*

You’d be good to spend your days simply strolling from coffee house to coffee house, but because I’m a gracious host with the scoop on some of my most favorite spots in the world, here’s a list for you:

Zlatna ribica

That translates to Golfish. This is, to date, my favorite bar in the world. If you’re an old soul who loves collecting postcards, knick knacks, memorabilia, Edison lighting, and dark corners, this place is for you. The (often times only 1) employees look like they walked out of the 20s and the drinks are served in glasses you’d see on Mad Men. It’s such a visual and immersive experience that I’d rather you read this and just go. Don’t look up pictures. Order plum brandy for what equates to $3 USD.

Havana

I’ve had the strangest and most wonderful chance encounters in this bar. Doesn’t hurt that their music solely consists of superb live local music and throwback American jams. Either famous Bosian musicians will be on stage or you will be twerkin’ to Baby Got Back. Those are your only two options. Go here for a more rowdy night out.

Čajdžinica Džirlo

Oh, man. There are coffee shops. Then there’s Čajdžinica Džirlo. Frequented by age-old locals and tourists alike, the place will just never feel gimmicky no matter how popular it gets. I sat in this place for hours daily getting to know the coffeetender whose matronly spirit was impressed upon every patron. It might as well have been my living room if my living room were adorned with colorful fabrics and walled with jars of medicinally-oriented tea leaves. It’s just that damn cozy and then some.

Morića han

I put this as the destination to get you to this general area. This is a little cave-esque spot in the old town that’s part marketplace, part coffee shop, and part restaurant. It’s hidden away so you wouldn’t know about it unless you happened upon it. The market in here is one of the most colorful and beautiful spots in the entire old town. It’s darker and lit up by hand-painted lights. Go get swept away.

Egipat

So let’s forget about what seems to be overtly racist signage above this tiny, tiny gelato shop in the city’s main square (right near the cathedral). It’s only a dancing Egyptian, but I can’t help but think it’s an unkind antiquated cartoon. This is not your average gelato. Think creamier and textured slightly like caramel. You can get all 4 of the only flavors they offer. Get at least 1.

Inat Kuća

Also known in English as the House of Spite. Basically at the end of the 1800’s Sarajevo started demolishing buildings in order to erect a new city hall. One old man owned a house on a plot of land the city needed for the new structure. He refused every monetary offer the city proposed for years. Finally, he accepted a bag of gold for the land--with one condition. He commanded the city rebuild his house right across the river brick-by-brick. Exactly. I don’t know who this man is, but he’s my hero. Now it’s a restaurant. Ask to eat in the attic. Bring a date if you can find one. Exchange flirty banter for stubborn hard-to-get insults the entire time.

Petica

Sorry but you haven’t had ćevapi until you’ve had it in Sarajevo and you haven’t have ćevapi in Sarajevo until you’ve had it from Petica. Order with a kupus and paradajz salad (cabbage and tomato).

Forino

Burek. Fast food. But still real food. You will dream of it post-consummation. Meat or cheese or spinach wrapped in dough. That’s about it.

The Four Rooms of Mrs. Safija

In the afternoon, enjoy the outdoor patio with some delicious local wine. At night, go here for a fabulous dinner with local and foreign influences. Walk through the rooms. Be a lady. Get into trouble. This place is beauty and grace and enough history to possibly have dirty secrets. Ponder them while you feast.

Kibe

This is your grand finale of Saraejvo. Located at the very top of the northern mountains, Kibe is nestled between houses and even looks like a house itself. Beginning as a local food stand, this restaurant has grown over the years to celebrity-visiting status without the pomp. You’ll get beautiful, unique architecture, extremely local food, and a panoramic view of the city. Getting there before sunset and sitting on the top floor is highly recommended.

Upon finishing this line-up, I realize my list is mostly comprised of food and drink. This, however, is Sarajevo. Relax. Move with the city. Don’t do too much. Walk along the river. If anything, Sarajevo is about being. Not doing.

The only sight I would highly recommend seeing is the 1984 Olympic Bobsleigh Tracks. They’re outside the city, but worth the trek.